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Roketa Bali MC-13-250 will not Run
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Tripped over this message here. People from what I am reading it sounds like NONE of you had the machines PROFESSIONALLY assembled. You also understand you paid 1/4 the price of a vespa. Now if you follow the suggested assembly and used the correct forms of contact from looking at that website they are automated. Now does anyone understand that online websites get about 4000 customers a day. Imagine having a store with that many customers. I personally would go insane. None the less, if you use the correct forms for contact and work with them as a kind person people will help you. I know this because I too bought a Chinese scoot and had some issues. After patiently working with them and using their parts department and ordering my parts I was back on the road. You all need to understand that you bought something wholesale. If you want people to spend 3 hours on the phone with you them buy local and pay what you get for! =-). I would suggest using a local shop to validate your problems, then using the sheet they give you to file your claims. You will find its quicker since their mfg's require this. You cant simply believe that because you say something is wrong that is really what the problem is. You need to do your part in the agreement. I think Countyimports is a great company. I was polite to them and they went out of their way for me. Might want to try that. Just me 2 cents.
NOTE: If anyone here assembled the bike themselves as per their service and warranty you have voided your warranty. Technically they don't have to help you at all. Its like buying a honda and putting it together yourself and then never changing the oil and expecting Honda to replace it. Don't abuse the system folks just follow the rules. |
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All of these Chinese made junk 250cc are build the same. No matter what name they put on it. I found that the vacuum lines are to support the smog devices. But with trial and error, I got the darn thing running like a scooter should! Looking at the left side of the carburetor there is a small vacuum line (appoxs 3in long) that runs from the front port (where the air horn is attached to the carburetor) to the back first port what looks to be a vacuum valve. You will need a 5 inch long GOOD vacuum line and put it where the short one was in the front move it to the back port of this vacuum valve. Put the one that you removed (back port) and place it on the front port of the vacuum valve. This will keep it running. Adjust the idle to about 1700 RPM’s. NO TACH? Put scooter on its stand. Have someone keep the front wheel on the ground and adjust idle to the point that the back tire just starts moving. Then back off just a little. The other thing is to adjust the intake and exhaust. Do this while running. Loosing hold down bolt and adjust just to the clicking noise is herd and move back till it stops. Do this for both intake and exhaust. With this, you should start with fast hit of the starter! ONE THING IS VERY IMPORTANT! Check all the bolts on the whole scooter. I found almost all mine very loose. I hope this helps a lot of you! Happy scootering. When it runs right, their very fun to ride.
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Here is a very good diagram, much better and more accurate than the one on Roketa's website: http://tinyurl.com/55thy6
I would like to invite all of you as well to index This is a non-profit website thats sole purpose is to help with issues on all makes and models of scooters, Just click on "forum" and all the answers you should need will be there. We hope to see you there. Remember, it's all about the ride! Helotesguy |
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My dad just bought me a 2007 Bali 250cc. The guy told me it was cold blooded so it was hard to start but my husband went threw & the battery had the wrong bolts holding it in so it wasn't getting a good connection. Well we have since figured out it needs a new battery. Now we are having problems with the brake lights. The right side was working the day we got it but the bulb was burned out on the left. Well he replaced it & the tail lights work but I get no brake lights at all. There are wires sticking up on each side by the brakes handles but the guy said it was for the mp3 player. It didn't come with a storage box & the guy put that on hisself. Inside it is a bunch of wires. Has anyone else had any trouble with the brake lights not coming on? When we do get it started after jumping the battery or charging it the bike runs great. I should have known something was up since I am it's 3rd owner in less than a year. After reading what others have put I am feeling very sick thinking I now have a money pit on my hands or something I am going to have to worry about breaking down when I am on a ride with my friends long from home.
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PLUG THE VACUUM LINE TO THE CARBERATOR, AND I THINK THAT THIS WILL SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hi people of the forum!
I think I have a mechanical question? My MC-13-250 is at 2700 miles and has as vibrational/rattling type of noise that has progressively gotten worse. It happens at lower RPM's and seems to be comming from the back engine assembly area. I took off the black cover over the variable clutch and belt assembly and nothing seems loose in there. Thought I could take the metal bell shaped object off to get inside the gear box to see if something was loose in there and could not loosen the nut as the back whhek tries to spin with it. Has anyone heard of this noise? ANd should I be concerned? Also the back whel seems to have an 8th of an inch play or shouls I say seems a bit loose. Please help, dont have any repair shops near my location. My E-mail is lovetofishh@hotmail.com Thanks, Ben |
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I have an mc 13 250. Besides what every else has said do not tighten the gas cap very tight. It will run great for under a mile but it will stall out. By having a loose cap it will run great. |
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It sounds like you have a blown fuse or fuses. For me I need to order an replacement cooling fan. |
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I own one of these. Yes mine would not run or stay running. Like many other people I disconnected the vacuum lines and ran the gas line directly to the carb. This worked but it would hesitate and engine would run a bit hot.
I found out that the diafram that is in between the fuel tank and carb is the fuel pump. I checked it out last week and it would not pump any water from a gallon jug. This has now been replaced with a better fuel pump. Roketa part # MC-68A-250-02-14 (OIL PUMP). I have reconnected the vacuum lines and reconnected the fuel lines correctly again and it has never ran so good. I can even tighten the fuel cap on the gas tank and it still runs great. The engine also looks like it is running cooler. I also replaced the cooling fan today because of a internal broken connection inside the cooling fan motor. Roketa part # MC-13-250-03-71. I hope that this might help some people like myself that wished at times why did I buy this. Looks like it is going to run for a while now.. |
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Have a roketa mc 68A 150.
Stopped at a red light and it stopped. Could not get it started, acted like it was out of gas but I didn't really think so. Pushed it to a gas station and filled it up. Still nothing. Acts like it is flooded, but it wont. Gas comes out a wire wrapped hose on the bottom when I try to start it. Any help? |
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I Installed An Electric Fuel Pump Which Stopped My Full Thottle Stalls And Stalls With Less Than Half Tank. Bought Mine On The Net From Jc Whitney. The Catalog Says Its For A Carborated Volkswagon. Pump Pressure Is 1 1/2- 4 Lbs. I Have A Roketa Mc54-250b.
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Well here we are over 5000 miles later and so far only mild problems. You have to keep the nuts and bolts checked thats for sure (but you should on any bike). I do have to get another airfilter but not sure what will fit it.
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Mine has had minor problems also. I could not start mine today. Vacuum line is what I expect. Let sit 2 weeks waiting on a part from Roketa. The part was the relay switch and it was the battery instead. But it must be a doozy. Cranks over great now, but am getting no gas to the carb.. Thanks for the tips. I have 2800 miles on mine. Yes, check the nuts weekly. But it is a good cheap ride. The chinese lack in quality but make up for the price. Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki would have charged us $5500 to $8500 for a simular ride. Parts replaced in 18 months: Starter 6 months ago, Counter 8 months ago, bulb 4 months ago, battery today, relay though did not need it( was battery), windshield 2 months ago, and valve stems 1 month ago. But overall have gotten alot of enjoyment out of it. Comes to about $250 total in 18 months. Oil and gas $125.. I figure, buying a used car, one will still spend more. Some things can be a hazard. Tip the valve stems are just glued in. Mine came out at 60 mph and on its own. I bought medal stems with two bolts on it.
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Well I fixed the problem today. I loosened the bottom brass screw in carb and it let gas run out of carb through a drain hose. It took a minute or two to start dripping down the hose and some gas came out the screw. Did not remove brass screw but slightly loosened it. After tightened I tried the ignition and it started up. Now I loosened the choke so now it would die if not continually giving gas( until warmed up). So it died 9 times through this process. But anyhow it finally warmed up and I adjusted the carb. Put it all back together and fixed my flat. Rode around for 20 minutes at a time and it starts fine and rides great again. Roketa must have alot of issues in general. But they can be good scooters if a person takes time figuring out what is wrong.. My initial thought, is I waited 2 weeks without starting it and the heat caused the gas to holt. That now my scooter was getting no gas movement and thus my starter worked but no gas. I had nearly a full tank of gas when it decided not to run. So the problem was different from the guy whom said," one must not let the tank go under half full". My scooter used 2/3rd a tank when I took a 120 mile trip. When I first got it it started on a gallon of gas. I have 2800 miles and never changed a hose on the carb.. But the brass screw is for draining the carb and I thought if drained the carb some, well the gas might start to flow again. But my scooter runs as good as it ever did.
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Ok here we are 6000 miles later and a few minor problems but they were fixed for about $30.00 We love it, and the service from evosales. |
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Hey Guys, I wish I had read this forum before I purchased my Roketa. Well I just got it last week, took it for a short test drive and everything seemed to be fine, except the blinkers weren't working. Later on the day when I picked it up, about 3 miles down the road noticed that the gauge was all the way to hot, I let it cool down a bit and when I got home noticed there was no coolant on the coolant compartment, so I added some and took it for another ride, the gauge wen't all the way to hot again, and as soon as I got home and turned off the bike I start noticing the coolant leaking all over the floor, I found out its coming from the compartment itself, it keeps overflowing, the fan works, but if the bike is off and I turn the key the fan goes on and drains my battery. Don't know what to do. Then two days later, I noticed that the panel lights, headlights, and the back lights had stopped working, checked the fuse box but they all seemed fine. Don't know what to do here either. Can anybody shed a light here?
Thanks Bruno |
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I have had no major issues with mine. It is coming up on 3000 miles now. I do everything reqiued to keep it running good. Had it up to 75 mph the other day, after greasing the bearings. But it takes alot of work( like adjusting valves, adjusting carb, changing oil, changing gear oil, changing antifreeze, greasing bearings, checking filters, ect). Alot of upkeep. Have thrown a new battery in it, a new windshield, a new counter, a new starter, one headlight,( around $200 in extra parts) not to bad for 19 months of riding. But it only costed $1700 delivered.. I paid $1199 for a Yamaha 49cc scooter in 1993( came with a 3 year extended warranty for $200 more, $80 helmet, $50 for preparing the scoot, $1530 for a piece of equipment that only lasted 3 years. I like the Bali 250 better...
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Ya, when you first got the scooter, you should have checked it for fluids and made sure all was filled. Now on the antifreeze leak, you will need to fix it. A liquid plastic would probably do the trick or strong glue. You found the coolant reservoir that leaked but there is another spot to check antifreeze level also. It is under the seat, under the panel closest to the plastic gas tank. When you open this, you will notice the head to the engine and the radiator cap. Remove when cool to fill if low. After filling with cap off still, start the scooter to let air bubble rise to escape. Turn off engine and refill it. After filled to the line so cap can go back on, put cap back on. You should fill reservior tank to the cap.. Change oil( regular 10w30 oil) not synthetic oil until you have it broke in.. That will be about 600 miles.. The antifreeze should be drained out and new added. The gear oil should be changed too. Adjusting carb will be necessary too. That will be the most difficult screw to get too( pilot screw) must be turned all the way in and taken back out 1/8th turn. Idle speed may need adjusting too. That is what giving you throttle( hand turns on throttle and carb reacts by a cable connected to carb. There is a spring tension part on carb with cable connected to it. Now the bearings should be greased every 2000 miles.. Not for sometime. All nuts and bolts should be checked for tightness. Means forks, axles, motor mounts, shocks, ect... This is for your protection. Now every 4000 miles you want to change tires out for new ones OR every 2 years.. You will want to change out the valve stems on both wheels immediately. Mine broke loose at 65 mph and that can kill one fast. Lucky it was the rear tire verses the front. I did not panic and let the scooter slow down on its own verses applying brakes. But it can be fun and exciting and at the same time a bit dangerous..
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thanks bruno |
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